Friday, 22 May 2009

Solving Zalman Reserator 2 problems

See here for the introduction.

Sure enough, it wasn't even a month before my little corner of peace turned first into a little nuisance and after a while into a nightmare:

Problems #1 and #2 - flow indicator
First I began having problems with cricket-like sounds that the flow indicator was making. I contacted my reseller and asked them for help. Aside from a bit of mumbling I overheard ("customer sucks" style), they said they would check with Zalman and get back to me. Well, in the three weeks it took them to get back to me, I started getting the second problem - the flow indicator stopped spinning which caused the unit to shut down the pump and start beeping violently. And that's not something you want with your water cooling. If the water stops flowing, it's a matter of minutes before the water in the blocks is too hot to provide any cooling for the components.
At this point I just took the unit to the retailer and hoped that it would be fixed ASAP. Naturally, it took them more than a month to actually give up and give me a new unit.
Problems #3 and #4 - service level
Since the retailer's service personnel was so helpful, I received the new unit alone. Having used all the coolant for the previous setup, I naturally complained. So I was given some of my original solution from the first unit plus a bit of coolant from the second package. And to top it all off, they poured the stuff into tap water washed plastic flasks (originally a sweet beverage). No amount of complaining made any difference. Together with this I was also given a lecture on how the coolant is too thick and that the instructions were wrong to suggest a 1:4 mixture. This supposedly caused the original indicator failures. A 1:10 mixture was more than enough. Blah blah. Naturally I also couldn't convince them to give me a new degassing tube. So much for customer service... :(
Problem #5 - pump too weak
I tried to remove the plugs from the tubes to make myself a new degassing tube, but that's impossible without cutting the tubes themselves. Of course, having no degassing tube made degassing even harder. The pump in the Reserator unit is simply too weak and after 4 hours of trying I had to give up. The pump simply couldn't push the water down the tubes and no amount of shaking, raising / lowering of both the unit and computer helped. Calling service again had no effect. Also writing mails to Zalman support also bore no fruit. So in the end I simply decided to buy a second pump. I chose the Laing DDC-1T and it arrived in two days. The Laing pump has similar properties as the Eheim in the Reserator. While also being a quiet pump, it has a rather nasty problem of vibrating alot. Only using lots of foam around it made it quiet. Two pumps in the loop finally managed to push the water through.
Having solved the problem, I also assembled the rest of the loop with the NB block and VGA block. After the system was degassed properly, the Zalman pump alone was able to push water through the system, but I rather kept the second pump in operation since the flow indicator turned spookily slow in comparison.
Problem #6 - very high flow resistance
At this point I should mention that the entire system offers significant water flow resistance. If you wish to empty the tubing, both the computer loop subsystem as well as the Reserator unit subsystem offer such resistance that one has to blow really hard into the tubes to make the water go through. I mean *really* hard. My wife saw me a few days ago when I was making the final cleanup / repairs and she yelled at me to stop as she thought I would have a stroke :) My face was just so red from all the blowing. }:-)) This kind of resistance certainly demands a pump with much higher head pressure than the Zalman integrated pump provides.
Let's put it this way:
Initially when I assembled the original CPU only loop I calculated the water flow and it was only 27 l/h (a very generous calculation) instead of the pump rated 300 l/h. Completing the loop with three elements didn't much change this. Maybe the flow fell to 25 l/h. In any case, the flow indicator spins really slow with Zalman pump alone.
Adding the Laing pump into the loop increases the flow to approx 60 l/h (also a generous calculation).
Problem #7 - flow indicator again After a month of bliss, problems started again. The flow indicator was stopping again and I couldn't figure out why. The reseller service refused to help me any further and they directed me to Zalman support, which I already knew to be quiet.
Zalman USA
So I turned to online forums, asking my peers for help. I received some great feedback as well as phone numbers of Zalman USA office. Naturally I called them and spoke to a nice guy named Keith and he agreed for me to send him an email with description of the problem. So I did and I got a reply the next day. This was great: finally some support. We exchanged questions and answers three times all of them within a single week and Keith was kind enough to give me all the requested info. He even promised to ask the Koreans to send me a replacement pump, flow indicator, degassing tube and coolant. This was truly a pleasant experience and I was really happy with Keith. To be more precise - I still am.
Well, to be sure, Zalman support was once again quiet. After waiting for two months I finally gave up on the replacement parts and proceeded to fix the unit following instructions by Keith and the forums folks. In order to do that I had to order some coolant, but unfortunately it was unavailable in Slovenia. Yep, both our distributors sell Zalman's water cooling kit, but none of them provide replacement parts of any kind. So I ordered from Germany, paying 13€ for coolant and 17€ for delivery :P
Problem #8 - Algae buildup
Having such a weak coolant solution predictably led to algae buildup in the system. While I was discussing things with Zalman USA and waiting for replacement parts that were never to come, algae started growing in the system. Fortunately for me, the buildup was slow enough that the system wasn't clogged by the time I started fixing things. But a thin film was clearly visible on surface of the coolant solution.
Problem #9 - Screw quality
Disassembling the unit revealed a few more faults with the unit. The screws used are extremely low quality. Even with a proper screwdriver I simply ruined a few of them. They are so soft that any force will damage them. One would think they are made of alluminum, that's how soft they are. But they react to magnets so I guess they are some iron alloy after all.
Problem #10 - Flow indicator materials
The flow indicator itself is made of clear plastic and the centerpiece (the spinning gauge) some blue plastic. Here's a pic of what I pulled out:

Note the two metal weights and the plastic around them. One weight is some iron alloy with good magnetic properties so that the sensor can detect the indicator spinning. The other doesn't have magnetic properties (and is also not affected by rust).
I cleaned up the metals and re-glued them into the plastic. To prevent further corrosion, I painted the whole thing with some water resistant paint. Excess plastic was cut off.
Since at the time I still didn't know what causes the indicator to stop spinning, I performed multiple tests for spin resistance. The indicator spinned no matter how low a water flow I generated, so I left it at that and proceeded with fixing the rest of the unit.
Problem #11 - Sharp tubing turns in the unit
Here they are:

I should mention that these imaged don't do the actual situation justice. Both tubes were bent so badly that the internal tube dimensions were at most 2mm x 8mm, thus severely restricting water flow. The springs that are supposed to prevent this bending don't quite do their job.
Having bought a couple of L joints beforehand, I was able to fix this problem like this:

The bottom joint was particulary problematic since there wasn't enough space and I definitely wanted to keep at least two of the sealing rings. Not being able to cut the L joint to optimum length left me with a bit of an angle which surely creates some turbulence, but I'm still betting this solution is a lot better than the original one.
Problem #12 - Air buildup
During all the time having these problems, I've had two occasions where air would start building up in the tubing. Initially I attributed this to algae, but it also happened again even after I had already used the new coolant. I'm guessing I just didn't make a strong enough solution which led to the original algae colony not being completely killed off. I have in the mean time cleaned the system again, also by using quite a lot of alcohol and I'm now using a much stronger coolant solution (1:3).
Anyway, I have also determined that this air buildup was responsible for the flow indicator failures. While I could certainly see the air in the computer loop tubing, I could never see it in the unit tubing. However I am now sure that air buildup was in both cases present also in the unit tubing itself.

So, this is it. After all the troubles and work fixing them I now have what I originally purchased. The conclusions from the previous post are still valid and I'm also happy that I managed to fix a problem where lots of things were working against me.

I still / again believe this is a very good piece of equipment and I think it's a shame Zalman removed it from their portfolio instead of fixing it. Its thermal properties are no doubt much better than Reserator 1's which stays in the portfolio, probably due to much simpler design which lacks many of the shortcomings of this unit.


Shin said...

hey can you tell me how things are going with the reserator 2?
it seems like people have a lot of trouble with them but I would love to experiment with it.
also, as for the L joint, would these work?

thanks for the many heads up though regarding the device.

Jure Erznoznik said...

I have now done a third overhaul which turned my Reserator into a completely passive radiator. Replaced quick couplings (the original ones leaked), removed the pump and the flow indicator as well as all electronics.
I still need to write this up in a new post, but don't have time right now.

As for those l-joints, I guess they might work, but I don't know their exact dimensions. You need 3/8" outer diameter and approx 3x3cm total length. Anything longer you'll have to cut.

Shin said...

oh wow, definitely going to check back on you regarding your new reserator.
from all the forums i've visited, they complain a lot about flow indicator, the stains, and the pump failures.
so even though i've bought it, im hesitating whether to open it or not, but if your new way works great, might give it a try.

AndyW said...

Great post. I am trying to refurb my R2 and am having trouble getting the correct fittings for the pump/reservoir manifold. I noticed you had nice brass ones. Could you share where you got them or at least the correct dimensions? Thx.

Jure Erznoznik said...

Hm, I guess you mean the fittings that come out of the reservoir part? Those are original Zalman, I never changed those. I haven't tried to unscrew them, but if they are like the quick couplings, you will need G1/4 --> 8mm (3/8") fittings.

Anonymous said...

Well, I have a Zalman 2 as well, for a few years now. I struggled along. Now I have it dis assembled, using the radiator as a standalone radiator, up rated pump open loop system have large plastic container that has my submersible pump and acts as my reservoir. I have my Cpu over clocked from a 2.66 to 3.2 which is nice, it stays about 20c less than TjMAX at full load.

Mikko P said...

I have too Zelman reservation 2. It is 4yer old and works great, but I have problem in flow indicator which work wry slow (barely keep rotate) So I have thing that I bought new pump from aquatinting shop (recommendations for pump ?). I am palling to fix thus sharp tubing turns and remove flow indicator. But main question is that: When looking inside reservoir and ther is hole w here water come in. So are that hole contain threads where I can connect external tube. Whay ? Because when that old pump are removed the coming and leaving water are same. I mean that water that come in is not mixing higher level water. So if I add little tube that coming water are blowing the water surface then the bottom water are sucked to cooling, and from there back into the cycle.

IN -> water surface -> cooling -> OUT -> cpu -> gpu -> pump ->

Jure Erznožnik said...

There's no need for that. One of the tubes connects directly to the internal reservoir tubing where water needs to go through the entire res / rad setup - the other just ends in the reservoir.
So no matter where you place your pump, it will either push the water through the reservoir or pull it from it (this is how the original implementation works - it "sucks" the water into the reservoir). The efficiency changes a bit depending on direction used, but overall you don't have to do anything more or anything fancy.
As for recommendations: I moved entirely to EKWB and am happy with their stuff.